Wednesday, 29 April 2015

Gai Paris...Part Quatre

SAMEDI 25TH AVRIL

The sound of rain could be heard tapping at the window and the temperature was noticeably lower than the previous two days when the alarm awoke me from my slumber. Thankfully, the weather didn't matter today as it was time to pack our belongings, leave the apartment as we had found it and travel back to the airport for the flight home. It had been a wonderful trip, many happy memories had been made and the desire to come back and visit more of this enchanting city was deeply set.

Gai Paris...Part Trois

VENDREDI 24TH AVRIL

A deep sleep and well earned lie in was followed by fresh croissants and sweet orange juice in the apartment. Josh and I took our time to collect ourselves together and with the things in hand which we would need for the day, we set off for the local bistro to decide on our plan of action and enjoyed a cup of cafe creme while watching the world go by.


Fortunately, our legs and feet were feeling refreshed so we planned to spend our last full day on foot and follow a walking tour of Paris.

Our starting point was where the city first began around 300 BC at the river island of Ile de la Cite. This is the home of the Cathedrale de Notre-Dame, a Gothic treasure built on the site of the Merovingian catherdral and the Roman temple of Jupiter. Building work began in 1160 and was completed around 1345. However, over the centuries, the building decade and some parts became dilapidated. Fortunately, Notre Dame was extensively restored during the 1820s and many of the memorable gargoyles were added to the fascia.


Afterwards, a well earned beverage was quickly drank overlooking Place du Parvis Notre-Dame, again watching the world go by.


Hunger had reared itself following the delicious 1664, so a delightful park just behind the cathedral was to be the location for lunch, the Square Jean XXIII. A picnic of bread, cheese and olives satisfied our needs before discovering a padlock bridge. Surprisingly, there is more than one padlock bridge in Paris and it appears that wherever a padlock could be placed, it was. Quickly, Josh was on the case, bought a padlock from one of the many stalls lined up along the Seine, written our names and secured it on the Pont de la Tournelle.



Thankfully, the weather remained on our side and a leisurely walk along the south side of the Seine, including a brief stretch of uneven cobbles, lead us to the Musee d'Orsay. Originally, this building was a railway station and served as such for just shy of 40 years until 1939. The building was reborn after it was saved from destruction and demolition by the well voiced public of Paris and in 1986, the interior was re-designed as a museum hosting great works of art from the Impressionist and Post-Impressionist period.


The walk took more energy than we realised and with relief we saw the cafe was on the ground floor. Unable to find this cafe, we resolved ourselves to climb the 5 stories to the other cafe in the museum. However, what we found most strange was that the escalators took people down yet the public had to walk up the stairs - all 5 floors! A rather expensive cafe greeted us upon our arrival but the quality of refreshments and stunning view from the terrace outweighed the cost.


From here on in, we toured the museum and enjoyed viewing many great works of art and basked in the architecture:

The main hall



Pablo Picasso, Woman in Green (1943)


Claude Monet, Houses of Parliament, London, Sun Breaking Through the Fog (1904); The Japanese Bridge (The Water-Lily Pond) (1899); The Poppy Field near Argenteuil (1873)


Gustave Caillebotte, Les Raboteurs de Parquet (1875)


Vincent van Gogh, Bedroom in Arles (1888); Self-Portrait (1889)


Francois Pompon, Polar Bear (1923-1933)



With the evening fast approaching and the tethered balloon ride still on our list, quickly we rode the metro to the Parc Andre-Citroen in the south of Paris. This felt like a park for local people, with families, groups of friends and joggers all enjoying the somewhat modern layout and features.

One of the features of the balloon is a strip of LED s which indicates the air quality: at that moment it was orange which means don't panic! Sadly, due to high winds, the tethered balloon was grounded.


Walking north along the Seine and heading for the Eiffel Tower, Josh spotted a very familiar landmark (more expected in New York city than Paris) and some cool street art.


The light show of the Eiffel Tower was to be the final stop of our trip, so following a delicious meal around the corner from the tower, we stationed ourselves on the Parc du Champs de Mars, munched through a sweet crepe and waited for the lights to come on.

Gradually, as the day fell into dust and eventually into night, the tower became more illuminated and the rotating light at the apex of the tower was in full view. Unaware of the governments decision to switch off the lights at 10pm as a mark of respect for the victims of the Armenian Genocide, we waited in the ever decreasing temperatures until we realised something was amiss.


Feeling the cool spring night air, the decision was made to head back to the apartment for the final time, have a good night's sleep and be fresh for our journey back to the UK in the morning.

Gai Paris...Part Deux

JEUDI 23RD AVRIL

Woken by the sound of the alarm beeping, both of us wished for more sleep but 6:45am was the time to be up because today was Segway day! Very excitable and wanting to ensure we found the location of our Segway tour in plenty of time, we quickly readied ourselves and headed out the door. Thankfully, all stations were present and correct on our journey today which resulted with an early arrival at the Segway tour on Rue Edgar Faure, just a few streets away from the Eiffel Tower. Knowing we had some time to spare and our stomach informing us of our need to eat, a delightful bistro was chosen to enjoy breakfast where we sat outside watching the everyday life of Paris go by as we tucked into fresh croissants, orange juice and coffee.

Following this, it was Segway time. Being 'experienced' Segway riders, it was like riding a bike once we were on the footplate and circling our practice area.


Once the whole group was feeling confident, we were on our way. Our first stop was the Ecole Militaire, founded in 1751 by Louis XV for the training of aristocratic army officers, including Napoleon Bonaparte. During WWII, Nazis occupied this building, along with many others, but the French didn't want any historical buildings destroyed through bombing or shelling from tanks. So, the allied forces had to use hand held and machine guns to drive out the enemy, resulting in bullet holes all over the fascia of the building which are still visible today.


A short distance further and we found ourselves marveling at the Eglise du Dome, constructed as the private royal chapel of Louis XIV between 1670-1676, although he only used it 4 times. The golden dome added a deeper sense of grandeur to this already impressive building.

On the other side of the Eglise du Dome was the Musee de L'Armee which used to be a military hospital for around 4000 injured army personnel but is now the national war museum.


Heading north from the Musee de L'Armee, the Pont Alexandre III (Alexander III Bridge) crosses the River Seine. This is the most extravagant of all 32 bridges which cross the Seine with four golden statues positioned on top of four stone columns, two at each end of the bridge. It spans 109 metres and was the first bridge in Paris to have electric lamps running along its edges. The Grand Palais can be seen when facing north and is now an exhibition centre.


From here, we traveled east to Place de la Concorde with an Egyptian obelisk, which is older than Paris itself, at its centre. This was the site where Louis XVI and Marie-Antonette were executed by guillotine.

Continuing east, we arrived at one of the most famous museums in the world, the Musee de Louvre.


It was a fair distance back to the Eiffel Tower which was to be our final stop. Designed for Paris's 1889 Exposition Universelle, it was the tallest building of its time standing at 300m tall and was only meant to be a temporary structure. M. Eiffel invested the equivalent of €30m of his own money to construct the tower, primarily using this money for settlements and legal fees as Parisians of the time didn't want it to be built. M. Eiffel leased the tower from the government for 20 years before handing it over but he made his money back within 6 months of the tower opening and by the time the 20 years were up, it had made him a billionaire in today's money.


The Segways safely returned, we headed back for the Eiffel Tower, enjoyed a jambon + fromage crepe sitting in the Parc du Champs de Mars before our assent. Knowing the amount of walking we were likely to incur during our stay, we opted for the lift and were greeting by glorious views of Paris from the second level. But it was the views from the top which were the most spectacular, especially when sipping champagne! We descended to the first level where the glass floor was situated, installed in 2014. Although the floor appeared high from the ground, the ground looked further away when looking through the glass. Josh and I both hesitated and gingerly placed our feet on the glass. It was the strangest sensation and not one I relished but one I'm pleased to have experienced.


Viewing the Arc de Triomphe from the tower, we decided this was to be our next destination. Putting our best foot forward and refueling with a double coloured / flavoured ice-cream, we marched along the Seine and up Avenue Marceau. The Arc de Triomphe is basically a huge roundabout, towering above the road and all the buildings around it. The arch was begun in 1806 by Napoleon in homage to his Grande Armee. However, it was completed in 1836 by Louis-Philippe who dedicated it to all of France's army.


With the weather on our side, it was the perfect time to travel back to the Sacre-Coeur. Initially, we ventured inside the church to find the entrance to the dome but were met with the vision and sounds of a priest giving a service and nuns in chorus standing in pews behind the alter. A quick circumference of the church and no entrance. We exited the church and thankfully discovered the correct doorway which led us up the 300 steps to the summit, a mixture of narrow spiral staircases or worn down and eroded steps traversing the roof. Triumphant, the views of Paris were worth the burn in our legs and the aches in our feet.


In need of refreshments and sat in the shadow of the Sacre-Coeur, we sampled our first taste of French onion soup and sipped red wine. Both were delightful. It was the perfect way to bring to a close a pack day of sight seeing, adventure and culture.


During the casual walk home, more picture-postcard scenes presented themselves, including one very tasty patisserie.